The terraces above Manarola, Corniglia, and the other four villages of the Cinque Terre are not decorative. They are structural. Without the estimated 6,700 kilometres of dry-stone walls running across this 15-square-kilometre stretch of Ligurian coastline, the thin soils of the steep hillsides would have been swept into the sea long before the first vines were planted. The walls are the reason cultivation was ever possible here.

What a muro a secco is

The term muro a secco translates literally as "dry wall" — built without mortar, without concrete, without any binding agent other than the weight and geometry of the stones themselves. In the Cinque Terre the stones are predominantly grey sandstone and schist, quarried from the same hillside where the wall stands. A trained muratore selects each stone individually: its size, its flat face, its tolerance for bearing load from above.

The wall is not a simple stack. It has an internal structure. Larger facing stones form the two outer courses, while smaller fill stones are packed tightly between them. The wall leans slightly inward — the scarpa, or batter — transferring the pressure of the hillside downward rather than outward. Through-stones, called legamenti, span the full width at regular intervals to tie the two faces together.

Vineyard terraces near Volastra, Cinque Terre
Terraced vineyards near Volastra, above Manarola. The narrow plot widths reflect the topography rather than a farming preference. (Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0)

Drainage: the gap that matters most

Dry-stone walls drain by design. The gaps between stones allow water to pass through the wall face rather than accumulating behind it. This is not a flaw in the construction — it is the mechanism that prevents wall failure. When hydrostatic pressure builds behind an impermeable surface, the wall will eventually fail regardless of how well it was built. The permeability of the dry-stone face keeps pressure equalised.

Traditional builders left deliberate drainage channels at the base of each terrace, directing runoff along the slope rather than through it. These channels required maintenance: clearing of sediment after heavy autumn rains was a seasonal task as standard as pruning the vines. Where maintenance has lapsed, the channels silted and the walls began to fail.

The knowledge behind the stone

Building a dry-stone wall capable of lasting three or four centuries requires knowledge that is difficult to transfer outside of direct apprenticeship. The muratori of the Cinque Terre traditionally learned by working alongside experienced builders from their early teens. The core decisions — which stone goes where, how steeply to batter the face, how wide to space the legamenti — were made by eye and hand, not by calculation.

By the 1990s, the number of working muratori in the Cinque Terre had dropped to a handful of elderly practitioners. The Parco Nazionale delle Cinque Terre, established in 1999, ran training programmes to rebuild this knowledge base. The programmes worked in part: a small cohort of younger muratori now operates in the area, though the total length of wall requiring active maintenance still exceeds what the available workforce can address each year.

"The wall does not fail at the face. It fails at the base, where the drainage has been blocked for years. By the time the face moves, the problem is already old." — From a 2018 interview with a muratore from Riomaggiore, cited in a Parco Nazionale delle Cinque Terre maintenance report.

Scale of the terrace system

The figures cited for Cinque Terre terrace walls vary by source and methodology, but the most frequently referenced estimate — from a 2007 survey by the Parco Nazionale — puts the total wall length at approximately 6,700 kilometres. For context, that is more than twice the length of the Great Wall of China's principal sections. These walls were built and maintained by individual families working their own plots, without any central coordination.

The total cultivated terrace area within the Cinque Terre Parco Nazionale is approximately 1,400 hectares, of which around 400 hectares remain in active agricultural use as of 2023. The remaining area is either abandoned, in partial maintenance, or has been converted to woodland.

The sciacchetrà vine and the terrace relationship

The wine most associated with the Cinque Terre — sciacchetrà, a passito made from dried Bosco, Albarola, and Vermentino grapes — depends entirely on the terrace system. The vines require the shallow, free-draining soils of the stone-walled terraces. They cannot be grown on flat irrigated ground and produce the same character. The particular mineral quality of the wine is partly an artefact of the schist and sandstone the roots reach through.

Sciacchetrà production has declined in proportion to the abandonment of terrace agriculture. In 1950, the area produced around 10,000 litres annually. By 2020, this had fallen to approximately 1,200 litres, according to the Consorzio Vini Cinque Terre.

Current maintenance and the UNESCO designation

The Cinque Terre was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997, with the terrace landscape specifically cited as the Outstanding Universal Value requiring protection. The designation brought international attention but did not, in itself, fund the labour-intensive maintenance the walls require.

Since 2012, the Parco Nazionale has operated a collaborative maintenance scheme with local landowners, subsidising terrace repair work on a per-wall-metre basis. The scheme has slowed the rate of abandonment in some areas, particularly around Corniglia and Manarola, where land is still actively farmed. In the more isolated areas between Monterosso and Vernazza, where the terrain is steepest and access most difficult, wall collapse continues to outpace repair.

External references: UNESCO Cinque Terre listing · Parco Nazionale delle Cinque Terre